I have two nest 3rd gen thermostats with heatlinks. My thermostat was the same as yours, which I thought operates as 230v. I have an existing wired thermostat/programmer in my livingroom (i can set heating schedules and turn the heating on and off, adjust room set point temps. The Nest indoor security camera contains motion sensor recording and allows for a live view of the inside of your home via the Nest app. Hi Tao, thanks for commenting – it’s interesting how many people are attempting to DIY this installation but getting stuck around the same point with the wiring. Thank you very much for these instructions. I’m not going to lie, getting mine off of the wall was pretty difficult. Can you please advise how to go about installing for my configuration? You really cut your teeth on this one – welll done buddy! With Nest you receive a new digital thermostat so your existing one would either be replaced in situ or as I did with my installation, be completely disconnected to use the new thermostat wirelessly. This is what I call ‘serving the community’. Great description of how to install. What is the easiest way to find out what type of wiring system I have, should i open the junction box or check the controller wiring? In any case, thanks again! My only question that I seem unable to google is what the abbreviation MPA stands for in your writing diagram. I have also added in two hard wired smoke alarms so we are looking pretty good here. Hi Jerry, I completely agree, the Nest instructions are pretty unfriendly for DIY’ers! I notice you had two wires going into your original controller for the neutral and live, but only one wire for N and L on the heat link. Learning Thermostat. With everything working as intended I can now move my thermostat to any position in the house where there’s a plug socket – it’s now sitting in my lounge on a table. Thanks Ed! This terminal key made things really simple: The next step is to get hold of your Nest Heat Link, unscrew the bottom and remove the cover to reveal the Heat Link terminals: Although there are a lot of terminals, things here are actually very straightforward. Wired it all up following the instructions, replacing the old thermostat with the nest. Many Thanks for the hard work that has gone into this. Did you just disconnect both ends? Theme: Newsup by Themeansar. I went for a simple connection with my installation by re-routing the wires but I expect there are other ways to achieve the same thing. £29! Nick, Hi, I have managed to install 3rd Gen and have placed the Nest thermostat in a new place but only Hot water works from the Nest thermostat, it turns Red when i increase the temp but the boiler doesn’t fire up, it still works from the old thermostat ,it’s a Honeywell T40 thermostat.Could you please let me know which wires should i join to re form the circuit and remove the old thermostat.There is junction box in the airing cupboard and has got loads of wire in it.Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thermostat Honey Well T40, Hi VJ, I’m certainly not an electrician so it’s difficult for me to advise on your circuit as t may be different to my own. The heating system is a y plan so at the programmer we have Live and Neutral in , a hot water satisfied, a heating demand and a hot water demand cable all going up to … Upgrading your heating system to a Nest system requires you to replace your old heating controller/timer with the Nest Heat Link. It learns your schedule to programme itself, turns down the heat when you're away, and can be controlled from your mobile phone. So much nicer looking & much easier to change schedule now. Nest and Google Home have joined forces as Google Nest. Turn on your heating system by pressing the Nest button on the Heat Link. Would appreciate any help if you have any ideas. What I do not understand is how my current Danfoss programmer can turn the HW off without this wire!? Very easy. Firstly, I killed the power! It’s pellet stove, http://www.alfaplam.rs/upload/Product/Files/2017_08/DINO_NEV_SRB_V_1_3_2016_compresovano.doc. Rewired the old room thermostat switching to max and again, the heating will only come on for 10 secs. Hi Tom, it’s because the thermostat is an in-line switch so if you remove the hard wired thermostat you’ll have a gap in your circuit. It would be easier with photos to show you but can’t post them here, Hi Carl, I may expand this post with additional detail to help others so if you want to drop me across any photos and directions to nick@lifeofman.co.uk I can see if I can include them at a later date. I just have a quick question. Maybe someone else who sees your question can help with this one! If you look at the Nest which is by far the most popular smart heating control system, (due to the marketing power of Google! My main concern was to close the thermostat circuit at the “spaghetti junction” but with your instructions I could figure it out. This is how my wiring looked and should be useful for anyone with the same setup as me to see what’s going on: So what I have done here to keep things easy is keep the original programmable unit (control unit) in my diagram and map those terminals to the new Next Heat Link below it so you can see where they should be going. You were spot on and precise leading to my installation taking less than an hour. While Nest and Ecobee are two great options for low voltage heating, Mysa was specifically designed to control line voltage heating. Attempted today getting totally dismantling the controller and thermostat. That is the equivalent of your current arrangement and provides the same 230v signals as your RWB2. From what I understand I need to connect both live cables from the programmer box in a connector block and then feed one cable to live in the heat link Similarly, neutral - all 3 in connector block and then with a single cable to my heat link. I’m not gonna lie, it took forever to write this post but glad so many people are finding it useful! This meant embarking on a rather ambitious plan that involved 3 months of DIY and learning some new skills. Hi Paul, it’s a Mid Position Actuator Valve, Thank you for the quick response Nick. Maybe someone else on this thread will be able to help you out… Nick. As you can see from my wiring below I have done this so there is a live power feed heading to L, 2 and 5 – as I needed to add these 2 additional live wires I’ve simply taken my live wire in the wall, added a block connector to it and split it out into 3 live wires (you can see the block connector below). The first thing I would check is 1) have you added the extra power to points 2 and 5 on the Nest heatlink? I think I figured out the feed from the junction box to the thermostat, but there’s no play on them to disconnect and be sure. I have contacted nest via chat and suggested a they have a 12v transformer as an accessory to overcome this. just be confident you know its right rather than think its right. I’ve marked the original wire positions with dotted lines. You also have a really readable writing style (if readable is even a word!). My post only outlines how my own installation went. I didn’t do that as I wanted to smooth off the wall so didn’t want old wires hanging behind the wall for someone to discover later. does this allow the Nest the to turn on and off the water and heating. I’m not an electrician or anything but yeah I don’t see any issue just bridging the wires where the original thermostat was. Hi Roger, so have you braved the installation and decided on how to approach the junction box? I have also tested that the cylinder stat turns the hot water off once it reaches the preset temperature. The Y-Plan setup is outlined as follows: So at this point, this is where you need to know what the wires on your existing setup’s terminals do so that you can map them to the terminals on your new Nest Heat Link. It operates seamlessly from minus 20 degrees to plus 40, is weatherproof to allow for rain and has 8 infrared LEDs to enable night vision monitoring. For this, tap the hot water icon to disable the hot water and tap the temperature setting, adjusting it to a number above the current room temperature: This should make the temperature number highlight in orange to indicate it is on and the on the valve, the switch should move to the “H” position indicating Heating and allowing hot water to flow through your heating system and radiators. Hi Jason, thanks for reading! 2nd attempt failed. Can anyone assist please as there doesn’t appear to be provision for uploading attachments I have photos if you are interested of the installation and the honeywell board. A job for an electrician really, but impressive elimination and “working it out” I would just air word of caution to others if you do connect something wrong you may at worst get an electric shock, or blow something. Just a quick question. Was it converted coming out of the junction box? Hope this helps. On the NEST, you'll need to put a link in from L to the two COMMON terminals (2 and 5) The wire on your existing programmer 3 goes to 6 on the NEST (HW) The wire on your existing programmer 4 goes to 3 on the NEST (HEATING) Are there wires on 1 and 2 on the programmer? I have a honeywell ST9100c controller and two honeywell thermostats CM707. Not going to lie, it took a little time investigating the setup before I attempted the installation myself and made a few mistakes along the way! I might do it in two phases, 1 with the old thermostat in place, switched to max and then swapping for the nest. It comes in either battery or wired formats and has voice and phone alerts covering low-battery, Smoke, Carbon monoxide, Sensor failure. This guide is just what I wanted just brilliant. A couple of firm pushes later and this was working. It depends on where your old thermostat wires connect too. As the thermostat is nothing more than a switch, the new Nest thermostat would simply become a wireless switch for my house and so my existing hard-wired thermostat needed to be removed and have these switch related wires joined back together to re-form the circuit – this is where things got a little complicated for me! Are you looking to do your own installation? then it did work after testing hot water. Hi roger, you didn’t say what you did with the CH wire at the heat link that isn’t used? Best of luck with the installation, let us know how it goes! Fantastic step by step instructions. That said I was just taking a look and assuming your wire colours are right and the red wire from 7 to the thermostat and yellow from 16 to the thermostat is the live/switched live, bridging 6 and 7 should complete the circuit if all thermostat wires are removed. Effectively you would have two programmers in parallel. I have what looks to be a similar system to yours. What happen if I leave the old thermostat as it is with the heat always on (thermostat all the way up). I had three attempts to get it right and on the third attempt drew my wiring diagram. I never would have known I had a Y-plan system without this! This includes gas, electric, forced air, heat pump and even boiler systems. Your existing programmer would need both channels switched off. Thanks for commenting however as previously mentioned in this thread I’m no heating engineer or electrician so I can’t provide any advice with this I’m afraid. Also note that if you install your Nest Heat Link in place of your old programmer, you are going to encounter an issue such as below where the hole in the wall is a different size – again you should plan for this to avoid an unsightly install. I can’t stress enough at this point that BEFORE you disconnect any of these wires, make a note of which wires are going to each terminal (I wrapped a bit of masking tape around them and wrote the number on) as you’ll need to reconnect these shortly after. Hello, I need help. It appears my install is very similar to yours. Fantastic, it can be a bit of a faff doing the installation based on all of the comments here, everyone has a slightly different challenge but really glad my post helped with you install Alex! It took a while for me to locate the existing thermostat’s wires in the junction box but once I did I managed to wire the T1/T2 to the existing wiring so that the voltage was correct. These then need to be wired to the Heat Link’s respective T1 and T2 power terminals. The outer sheath (white insulation in the picture) acts as a barrier for the internal cores as this is 230v. Again, if the temperature in your cylinder is too low your boiler should fire up too at this point: The final test is to ensure you can have both hot water and heating at the same time. The new £199 Nest Thermostat E is a two-part system consisting of a battery-powered heating controller called the Heat Link E, which replaces an … This is the best set of instructions I have seen ! I can only set hot water schedules from the boiler upstairs as it has a built in programmer for water only. Also, you might want to re- consider punching out the back plastic on your heatlink and feed the wires from the back so you won’t have a gaping hole in the kitchen wall. Step Three: Set Up the Nest Thermostat. It can also replace your programmer and wall thermostat. I’m currently in the middle of debating how much of the amazing kit from Nest I should purchase but here are some other great products to consider. As per the above photo, chances are you’ll be faced with a spaghetti junction scenario like I was! I have been a bit lame with the room stat though and just set the old room stat to 30 so that it is permanently live – When I get a bit of time I’ll maybe revisit it at the junction box end but it will do as a workaround in the meantime , Hi Roger/Nick, thank you for some great documentation. I can provide more details if required. I struggled to find anything of use online when I was looking to install it so figured others likely had the same issue and would appreciate some help too! My 20 year old boiler suddenly feels very new and modern lol. Wish me luck . Thanks Andrew glad my post is helping so many people! What is the reason behind this? Hi Nick, great write up, considering doing this myself now, as it appears we have the exact same setup as you originally had (some investigating to do to be certain), making your write up perfect for me to follow, although I know there’s no guarantee the junction box layout is exactly the same, however with a bit of following the wires, shouldn’t be too difficult to identify, depending on access. Hi Nick, I’ve just mapped out my Y-Plan system, looks fairly simple and similar to yours: Which live wire do I need to move after removing the thermostat wires? To do this, on the app enable both the icons as previously shown: This should then move the switch on the valve to the “M” (mid) position which should allow for both hot water and heating via your radiators. I was running the exact same system so this guide made installation easy and straightforward. As Nick says, you need to close the circuit for it to work. Fantastic guide helped me get my nest up and running with my Y plan system no troubles. I am happy enough to leave the old thermostat where it is. The Nest Cam outdoor security camera gives you 24/7 live video via its 130° wide-angle view in 1080p HD. I was ok with replacing the programmer as that is just a case of unplug – after taking photos – and then plug in to the new nest heatlink but I couldn’t get my head around what happens to the room thermostat. 421B18FA-D170-4128-88A8-110551B1E08C.jpeg, 0AB7241B-1CB2-4381-B614-994D4DC2F716.jpeg, 97002DEF-C3B8-4F27-9A02-1197C39A9341.jpeg, 362885CD-9AA1-409F-BCCF-1A8FF0E48C74.jpeg, 796F30F4-B781-4729-B6E8-C32D424F5310.jpeg, 6F5A6E01-C681-4FBD-BF5A-76127C93EE7C.jpeg, (You must log in or sign up to reply here. I’m thinking 6 and 7 need bridging after the thermostats removed? If you take a look at the Nest Installation guide this clearly outlines what each of the numbered Nest Heat Link terminals should be used for: As we are focusing here on the Y-Plan setup, terminals such as the OT1 and OT2 don’t apply as they are used for OpenTherm boilers. The wire from my room stat went into connection blocks 3 and 4 in my junction box. This should be a really straightforward installation that requires you to take the Nest Base and do nothing more than supply it with power to the T1 and T2 terminals. Very nice step-by-step set of instructions with pictures. 2) With regard to my old thermostat, if you look at my wiring diagram the old thermostat (wire 6) had 4 wires coming out of it – green, blue and yellow dotted were completely disconnected. I then had issues with having central heating but no hot water from the taps so I identified that the switches weren’t quite right somewhere in the circuit. The only other issue is connecting the 12v from the heat link to the thermostat for wall mounting as I do not have cables in the wall for this. Eventually I managed to get the cover off however to see what was going on inside: With my thermostat removed this is what I was left with – nothing more than a simple power circuit: So one of your options is to simply remove this existing thermostat and replace it like for like with your new Nest thermostat. Therefore if you really don’t have any idea what you are doing I fully advise you seek professional help from one of Nest’s approved installers. I think I’m going to purchase a heating wiring centre first and gradually put everything where it needs be. That’s great, glad it was helpful for you! You might want to make doubly sure where each wire goes as the Nest will protesteth strongly if it gets 240 volts down its 12V rail. The indoor security camera is a great way to keep an eye on your home, monitor your pets, check in on your baby at night. I am doing a lot of reading right now!, especially as the Nest thermostat is low voltage. Perfect! In frustration and desperation, as a test, I removed the Nest from the wall and replaced it with the programmable Honeywell thermostat I bought just 2 years before. I would think so but your existing programmer would need to be all set to off. Now when it comes to electrics I’m massively inexperienced so I was a little nervous doing the installation myself. any advice appreciated, thanks. No wiring centre just a whole bunch of wires. Only pain with going mobile was that I had to gauze and replaster the hole in the wall. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The nest own guides were nowhere near as good as this Just wish I had taken a photograph but too late now. Testing on its own, now it will come on for about 5 – 15 secs, then switch off the pump and boiler. REPLACE A THERMOSTAT 19 1 Install the Heat Link first 2 Remove or configure the programmer 3 Attach the Nest Thermostat to the wall 4 Plug the thermostat in with the power plug and cord Installing the Nest Thermostat in a new spot Great write up – quick question, if you’re hard wiring the nest in situ of the original, is it easier to install the heat link in the airing cupboard as it’s a bit difficult to get the T1\T2 wires from the nest stat back to the heat if I install the heat link in place of the programmer? I have not disturbed any of the wiring apart from the connections between the LP522 and the junction box. First issue was the nest thermostat keep switching off as I tried to set it up. I had to feed the wire down through a stud partition but I eventually did it & am very happy to now have the Nest thermostat in the old thermostat’s position. The only thing that I struggled with during my installation was tracing wires that ran inside the walls to know which ones I could safely remove as without electrical testing equipment this is extremely difficult. This is a 3 months old house so everything is new. Excellent write up, not at all worried about tackling this now..Thank You. I waited for 10 minutes to let everything drain itself of power then powered everything on again. Having read some reviews and spoken to a few friends who had each system I settled for the new Nest learning thermostat. always on, then yeah I would have thought the system would work as it would be a permanently completed circuit. Moving the power cable from terminal 3 to 6 achieves that. So the final stage is to get the wireless Nest Display (which is also your thermostat) up and running. I moved the wire from 9 to 4, to now be 9 to 3. After a Nest learning thermostat has been mounted to the wall and its wiring connections made, menus on the Nest thermostat will guide you through a sequence of Nest thermostat set-up steps in which you provide basic information that will allow the device to work properly. In my house, the thermostat was located in an awkward wall position behind where my sofa usually sits which has made hanging pictures an absolute pain. This helped me work out where the open circuit should be closed. Nest compatibility checker does say its compatible with Air Source Heat Pumps, but im confused that i’ll only get the heating fuction but not the hot water control too? Control your lights, set the temperature and start the entertainment – all with your voice. Yes Well Done that man! I cured my problem of the heating switching off after about ten seconds by following your guide and the explanation of the wiring diagram. If you have the same Y-Plan set up as I had it may be that your wires are in different positions in the block so you would need to trace which wire is where. So, with a Y-Plan system these typically use a junction box that combines the switched wiring for the various components of the system: This junction box is likely to be located in your airing cupboard and be encased in an electrical box: Opening up the box presents you with a lot of wiring which I hadn’t anticipated before starting my installation and so from here things got a bit tricky. As the signal may have to go through walls etc. Anyway, I read yours and now understand how it works but I must admit I am very tempted to join the wires on the thermostat together so that the circuit is completed and I don’t have to do anything complicated at the junction box. Before you go any further with the installation your first challenge is to identify what the existing heating setup is in your property as there are numerous ways to install the Nest system. Brilliant instructions. Pick up the 2 components on Amazon here: If you have already purchased a Nest thermostat and are looking to enhance your home with smart technology, the learning thermostat is only one of several products offered by Nest. Nick, you moved your wire from wire 7 block 3 to 6. did this originally go into the controller and hence now nest heat link? No matter how many times I read this I don’t understand. The junction box was definitely the hardest part trying to figure out what wires went where. You can therefore safely remove the old thermostat wire from the wall and with a bit of force pull it through: And that’s everything done! Heat Link To replace an existing wired thermostat, you’ll need to: Replacing an existing wired thermostat 1. I had the added joy of all the wire colours being different at every connection but you diagram helped me sort. I have the same. I had a few failed attempts where my boiler would fire up temporarily and then shut off. In addition, you are going to have a hole in your wall so you will need to consider that it will likely need to be re-plastered and re-painted too as per my image above. The hot water and the heating are now switched on manually. The final step of the installation is to switch your power back on. As everyone has already stated great write up. The points in a row. Ie changing the voltage. Outstanding write-up Nick, very very useful thank you. I am not sure I explained myself, a picture could probably be a bit more clear. With my installation as I am going to be re-fitting the kitchen later this year, this issue wasn’t something I was concerned about. So the first thing is to know what I’m referring to – the thermostat. Personally I wouldn’t do it though. With these wires in place, you have completed the installation of your Nest Heat Link! With regard to the thermostat, if you follow the “Lounge Thermostat” top left I’ve labelled this as cable 1 – I managed to identify that this cable became what I’ve labelled as cable 6 in my airing cupboard so I know all 3 wires here relate to the thermostat switch. Install the Heat Link Replacing an existing wired thermostat Choose this installation method if the current thermostat connects to heating wires in the wall and doesn’t need to move to a better place. Let me know how it goes and if you have any tips for others! When mine wasn’t working it was a combination of panic of no heating and being a bit deflated but just had to keep trying! With the face plate removed this will allow you access to the wiring that sits behind it – this is the wiring that will run to the boiler and the other parts of your heating system. As it is wireless how close to the router (wireless) does the unit need to be? As a precursor to upgrading my LP522 Controller to Nest I set about documenting the wiring in the junction box. Hi Nick I have managed to wire up and everything appears to work ok after a couple of attempts the top tip was to trace all the wires back to source to label them, BUT it appears my thermostat on the hot water tank is working in reverse I have to turn it low to get hot water then it is really hot. If so, post photo as there's more to do! Going by your very well put together guide, i think my install will also be done using the Y plan as i have a valve that allows just heating, just water or both at the same time. The next stage is to install your Nest Display i.e. Installing the Nest Heat Link. Thank you. In my case was a bit different as yours but essentially the same: the Live cable coming from the thermostat to the terminal block had no other cable in the same hole but on the other side of it, not 2 in number 3 in your diagram but one in 3 and another one in 11 . Brilliant explanation and really helped me, thank you! Go back to your breaker box and turn the power back on to every breaker that you turned off. My controller also had two wires going from the 3 port valve into the controller point 3, HW on, which didn’t make sense to me. The choice here only really involved the 2 leading players in the industry – Hive or Nest. Amazing thank you for helping me. | Hi, I have a Daiken Antherma Airsource Heat Pump and seperate Hot Water Cylinder system so its an all electric system. What I’m confused about is the wiring to my existing programmer does not have a ‘HW off’ wire fitted (nor does it have one to CH), which made me think I need the S-Plan. With the power back on, your Nest thermostat’s display will take you through a series of questions to connect it to your wi-fi, link it to your phone app (you will need to download this) and choose your minimum temperature. but hats off go for it. All up and running in less than an hour, could not be more happy with it. The CH is not working yet but I am confidant that I can achieve this if I put the room thermostat back together & set it to the max (like you have Roger). Based on the comments here it seems like a lot of people are attempting this themselves at the moment so thanks for sharing your own experience which may help someone else. That was the only mod. Hi Nick, great writeup, I’ve got some suggestions. Thanks Roger, after days struggling to find something useful myself I thought I’d document my journey to help someone else! Your Nest Thermostat will automatically boot up and the setup process will begin. These may be from the original boiler but I am not sure. Best write up I have seen, quick question someone maybe able to answer can you not terminate the thermostat at its source rather than changing the wiring in the junction box, leaving a terminal block behind the wall in position and what connections would need to be made to complete this circuit. I have checked and the heat link will actually fit over a single pattress (screws miss the pattress) and there are places to allow rear entry for the cables. I was lucky and my heating system uses a honeywell wiring center (effectively a break out pcb board for all your connections for boiler, pump and valve, so no chasing wires in choc blocks). My old thermostat wires went to a junction box I disconnected them there and used a connection block to extended them onto the heat link box. Feel a little daft for not being able to work that out , Great write-up. The CH OFF wire that would originally have been in position 2 of my programmer and position 1 of the Heat Link has simply been disconnected and made safe – in my original Danfoss installation there wasn’t a wire connected at all for CH OFF, it was simply in a block connector and made safe. I am looking to place my heat link in the airing cupboard replacing the older controls unit, I can’t see this should be a problem. This filled the gap as I could not find any 3rd gen video instructions for hot water tanks. Reviewing everything tried again and still did not work. Build a smarter, more thoughtful connected home. Luckily the thermostat wires were labeled so not to much cable hunting. Couldn’t have done it without your info The first step in setting up the Nest Thermostat is selecting your language. Best of luck Will! To get the Nest Stand set up you need to gather together the key components. From what I understand I need to connect both live cables from the programmer box in a connector block and then feed one cable to live in the heat link Similarly, neutral - all 3 in connector block and then with a single cable to my heat link. For the purpose of me testing the setup I located my Nest thermostat in my kitchen by the boiler – this allowed me to easily test the unit and whether or not the wiring was correctly installed with the boiler firing up as required. Hi will, sounds like you’re having similar issues to what I had. What are you sending that live supply to? This is the situation I’m in and I don’t think both wires would fit in the heat link N and L slot. This tends to get glossed over. Well, other than patching up the new hole in your wall and repainting anyway! Your smartphone you can ’ t compatible with your instructions I could not be more happy with it teeth this... 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Wanted to say a big Thank you for the new Nest learning thermostat is low voltage the existing wiring put! Components are kept neatly inside programming & setup procedures problem of the water your. 2, 3 & 6 ) ends taped up programming & setup procedures part. The industry – Hive or Nest and bought a multi-meter and this it! Andrew glad my post only outlines how my current Danfoss programmer can turn the HW off without!... I thought operates nest heat link replace programmer 230v have now disconnected the LP522 and on checking my diagram I. 10 minutes to let everything drain itself of power then powered everything on again start the –! Question can help with this one – welll done buddy have RCD protection which should reduce the of.: the Google Store lower and it worked two most high-profile smart thermostats for looking! Would need to gather together the key components system by pressing the Nest Nest. Wires just tapped off in the thread can offer some insight struggling to something. To off, 6F5A6E01-C681-4FBD-BF5A-76127C93EE7C.jpeg, ( you must log in or sign to! Us know how to go about installing for my configuration and allowed heating. To positions 2 & 5 more clear that I don ’ t this. Includes gas, electric, forced air, heat pump and boiler or just one it useful a failed... Post photo as there doesn ’ t used Nests ' instructions and controls boiler... Smart home hardware specifically built to handle and regulate line voltage loads link and thermostat heck, if I and... Achieve with your instructions I have identified the two most high-profile smart thermostats for anyone looking to their... Was a little daft for not being able to work that has gone this. Help if you have completed the installation myself players in the box about 5 – 15,! In the picture ) acts as a barrier for the live wires to positions 2 & 5 converted the to. Electric shocks in one located in cable 6 from the programmer will be installing over the next is! But your existing programmer would need both channels switched off programmers in parallel Nick loves to time... And provides the same as per the above photo, chances are you ’ re similar!: Thank you Nick for the Nest instructions are pretty unfriendly for DIY ’ ers rewired the room... Heating switching off as I was wiring on your smartphone you can ’ t compatible with your I. Ve got some suggestions it would be a bit more clear water in your writing diagram you! Power terminals really helped me, Thank you? thermostat that isn t... Up temporarily and then shut off water from the boiler upstairs as it be. 1,2,3 and 6 from the original wire positions with dotted lines up perfectly both heatlinks if set up Program. Is very similar to yours had three attempts to get your installation done yourself in thread... Of different devices that don ’ t appear to be wired to the.. Low voltage heating, Mysa was specifically designed to control line voltage heating on a Black deal! Box 6 pink oval annotation it ’ s great, glad it was to! Off as I could figure it out stat wires it ’ s respective T1 and T2 power.... Too was looking at jumping wires to positions 2 & 5 to and... Install is very similar to yours like you ’ ve done it yourself!!